MAGICAL JOURNEY TO GREECE

A Magical Journey - the first ...

2009-02-01T11:47:00.000-08:00

If this is your first trip to Greece, then our Magical Journey will give you some good ideas for taking in the major sites and the must-see islands.

Our trip was 18 days, but the basic structure could easily be modified to suit your timetable. Our Magical Journey visits Athens, Mycenae, Epidauarus and Nafplio, Olympia, Delphi, Naxos, Delos, Mykonos and Santorini. We hope you enjoy it!

I first fell in love with Greece when I was young, and I learned that the labyrinth in the myth of Theseus and the Minotaur, was the Palace of Knossos in Crete. From then on, the stories took on a whole new meaning and opened a world into a fabulous and mysterious past where incredibly advanced thinking was taking place. I had an image of the island that was completely shattered when I discovered that the island of Crete had not one, but two major airports. My first realization of the intrusion of modern man into this mythical world.

I'm not old enough to remember the day Kennedy was shot, but I remember where I was the day they roped off the Parthenon. Terribly distressing news. The reports talked about vandalism and graffiti, and, although having had nothing to do with the roping off, the destruction from pollution.

So you see, my impression of Greece was that the magical land was lost. People went to "Greece" on fancy island cruise packages that didn't appeal to me in the least. I looked at one brochure that sailed 12 hours to get to Crete for a four hour stop-over, giving you from 7:00 a.m. to 11:00 a.m. to check out the Palace half an hour away and get back to your boat - yeah right! Not for me.

So I kind of forgot about Greece for a while, until just over a year ago when I began to plan our first real holiday in twelve years, and almost by accident Greece became our destination.

Our trip was completely planned on the internet, and it was perfect in every way and went well beyond our expectations. We had the perfect balance of discovery and relaxation, no difficult travel arrangements, breathtaking views from EVERY room we stayed in, we never rented a vehicle, and we discovered so much about Greece, and a lot about ourselves.

Yes, the Parthenon's roped off, but not much else is. Some areas of Greece have been over-developed by package tourism and unless that's what you're looking for - steer clear. Even if you do the main attraction islands as we did in our first trip, with a little planning and a little research, you can still find the real Greece, and you can still find the magic. I've become completely enthralled with this magical land, which DOES still exist.

Now without further ado, I shall turn you over to Rob, who discovered a talent for writing - and for providing a good laugh - as he documented our Magical Journey to Greece.

Much to his dismay, a little editing was necessary, mostly to protect the interesting individuals we met along the way ...

May 2 - Arriving in Athens

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We made it! After what seemed to be an endless journey, we are finally here - our first trip to Greece.

The flights were basically a pain - seated near the throne on both legs - but Jane met a very helpful guy on the second half. 'John' pointed out all of the relevant sights from his window seat.

Poor guy just finished his masters in England and was coming home to fulfill his two year military obligation.

The rumours of some Greek taxi drivers are not exaggerated - the taxi driver that we had from the airport drove like a madman. To be perfectly honest, he would have scared Jacques (Villeneuve, that is) had he picked him up, but after all those hours of travel we were fine with his driving.

We checked in at the lovely Hotel Plaka and were soon strolling about Athens. The view from our room is one we will not soon forget. The Acropolis seems to be within arms reach!

The view from our room

After an impromptu tour of the Plaka district, we decide that Athens isn't nearly as bad as we had heard. We found a square with plenty of happy people, and decided to join them. We must have become somewhat delusional at that point, because an old man with a polaroid took our picture and charged us $7.50 for it (1,500 drachma).

After a few Heinekens, and a gift of owl's eyes from a jewellry store proprietor (blue charms for luck) for Jane, we're back to the hotel. Going to see the Acropolis and the museum in the morning.

Amphoras near the base of the Acropolis

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May 3 - Lost in the Plaka

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So much for the Acropolis and the Museum.

We went for a stroll hoping to find the Adams Hotel. I say hoping with good reason - the streets here are like a maze, and the Plaka is fascinating.

After hours (and miles) of walking, it turns out that it's just around the corner!

Oh well, we met a waiter from La Castille (small world, a restaurant just down the street from us at home) and ended up on his patio drinking beer and ouzo, eating menzedes - ALL afternoon.

We wrote many a postcard, had many a laugh, and decided there was no place we'd rather be.

After a lengthy nap (christ, it's after 11:00!) we go out for dinner.

More owls eyes for Jane and souvlaki in another square. Virtually everyone here is incredibly nice.

Back at the hotel, we look at the illuminated Acropolis from our open window and sleep to the sounds of Greek singing and dancing down below.

Tomorrow we're up bright and early - our four day tour begins. For now, I shall say Kalispera!

A great spot for debating philosophy

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May 4 - Mycenae, Epidaurus & Nafplio

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What a great day! It's just after 10:00 and Rob and I are having a drink on our patio overlooking the harbour lights of lovely Nafplion.

This is the first day of our Classical Greece Tour. Our hotel, the Xenia Palace sits high atop the hill, right inside one of the two Venitian acropolis'.

We left Athens this morning and travelled first to the Corinth Canal.

Quite an impressive sight and we were lucky - a boat was just coming through. I got some pictures from the bus, but Rob was the one who ventured out on the bridge on foot to get the best shot. For me, just getting a little over the edge was more than enough.

After Corinth, we travelled through the Peleponnese and the Argolis region to Mycenae. I got a bit teary when I saw the lion gate - it took me right back to my grade 11 Ancient History class with Mrs. Weiss. I know I'm a nerd, but this is why and when I met Colleen, and the beginning of what would become some fabulous fun and friendships.

The Lion Gate at Mycenae

It amazes me how accessible the sights are. We were able to go everywhere - Agamemnon's tomb (although we now know it's too early to have been Aggie's), the omphalos 'beehive' tombs and right up to the top of the Acropolis.

We are starting to feel a bit like mountain goats - although not quite enough to contemplate the 999 steep steps up to Palamidi - the Nafplio acropolis.

The Argolis region smells beautiful (in greek = poli oRea) - orange trees, lemon trees, pistachio and olive trees as well as wildflowers everywhere you look. Everything is so lush - and the poppies, which seem to grow out of barren rock are the most beautiful shade of a deep blood red. It seems somehow symbolic of the heros and 'legends' that once lived amongst these bricks and looked out at these hills. After Mycenae, we travelled to the theatre at Epidaurus which was also incredible.

Reports have the seating capacity somewhere between 6 and 30 thousand, although I tend to believe it's more realistic at around 14-16,000. You can almost imagine what it would have been like in ancient times with the lively festivals. Disappointing to see that some people treated it with such disrespect as to pitch their garbage anywhere they liked - where's Dracos when you need him?

Theatre at Epidaurus

If you're visiting Greece in the summer months, you can take in a show at Epidaurus in July and August, which I would imagine would be quite special.

The view of the mountains is magical and tomorrow we have a long journey through them to reach Olympia. I can hardly wait.

If this trip continues to get better and better, as I suspect it will, the only way anything could be improved upon is if we come for six months next time.

Lovely view of tomorrow's destination

Our tour guide, Effie, is very well informed and paints a very good picture of the history and the love and passion that the Greeks have for their nation.

Before I go for the evening - I should mention that Athens is one wild town. After napping well into the evening yesterday I was awake to hear that the Plaka was partying well into the night, singing, dancing and general celebration of life until after 3 a.m.

We'll have to find that place when we go back in a few days.

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May 5 - Olympia

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We're writing this in catch-up mode. Just too much fun yesterday for writing about it. It's breakfast time on the 6th - coffee and Baileys for Rob (the hair of the dog!)

Yesterday we travelled over the entire Peloponnese - what a beautiful part of the country.

Wildflowers, hundreds of varieties, were everywhere. Sparta bushes (yellow flowers), Judas trees (pink/purple) and Mimosa trees (yellow berries) are new finds. Oleander grows everywhere but it's not yet in full bloom.

After a brief visit to Megalopolis and HOURS of bus ride, we reached Olympia. Incredible!

Despite the heavy earthquake destruction that once hid it completely, it is such an impressive site. We explored as much as we possibly could - going anywhere you want again - and toured the impressive Museum also.

Pediment statues from the Zeus Temple (Apollo in the centre)

We had to risk abandoning the education from our tour quide for a while in Olympia as it was just too enticing to stand still for long. I really could have spent a week in Olympia.

Tony disappeared for a while and found Phideas' workshop, which I didn't see, as we left much of the wonderful site unexplored. Good reason to return some day I say.

Entrance to the stadium at Olympia

Last night a group of us went to a Greek dancing show down the street and Rob and I both got up on the stage if you can believe it - OPA! Right after the first number, the dancers came off the stage and grabbed Sonia and I - which I really wasn't expecting at the beginning of the show - but well ... when in Greece.

Posing at what turns out to be the finish line at Olympia

After the show there was no stopping Rob - more beer and ouzos were called for and we talked with one of the dancers until well into the early hours.

We walked to the top of the hill but there wasn't much to see in the dark and we were disturbing the dogs - so we sat on our balcony and watched the biggest moon we've EVER seen rising very quickly over the mountains.

We had a laugh at dinner last night when we discovered that Rob had eaten goat - and hadn't known it! What more adventures await? ...

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May 6 - Delphi & Arachova

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First beach today - woohoo!

We left Olympia this morning - heading for Delphi this afternoon. We're driving along the coastal road and it's just amazing.

We stopped in Patras for a cup of coffee in the town square and everyone caught some sun.

We boarded a ferry from Rion to Antirion across the Gulf of Corinth, and stopped to take a few pictures at Nafpaktos (the loveliest little town I've seen yet!).

The pretty little town of Nafpaktos

We stopped for lunch at a gorgeous taverna right by the water. George and Sonia introduced us to bread with Greek olive oil and balsamic vinegar - fabulous. We all ate up quickly and headed for the pebble beach to put our feet in the water and lie in the sun. Truly heaven!

The water calling us from the lunch table

We're about to start climbing up to Delphi now so I'll go and watch the beautiful views. Delphi is high atop Mt. Parnassos and we're currently low on the coast - it's going to be an interesting ride!

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My turn! - we have arrived at Delphi, and let me say this...WHAT A RIDE! The bus ride was awesome to say the absolute least. The scenery was incredible.

Half the people on the bus (there are only 15 of us - and 50 seats) slept the entire time, and they missed plenty. Sonia and George (our new pals!) didn't have the parts....perhaps a little too much dancing last night? Anyway, I digress...

The ride up to Delphi

The roads that wind through the mountains are petrifyingly narrow - at the best of times. And when you add in the style of driving here.........well.........you get the picture. These roads wind up and through the mountains, with hairpin turns (and I DON'T use the term lightly) every mile or two. Once in a while, the side of the mountain would seemingly swallow up the edge of the road, leaving us a view of nothing but a 3,000 foot drop to the valley. I pressed my face to the window, but could see NO road, NO shoulder, NO kidding!

After saying a silent prayer of thanks for Tassos, our skilled driver, it was time to admire...the view, the mountains, life in general. A ride like that will do that to you. I could go on and about this leg of our journey, but I won't. We will never forget it, I assure you.

We arrived at Delphi a few hours later and sat down to a quick lunch - time to start sight-seeing. Delphi will be a two day stop, so after a long journey we visited the lower Sanctuary of Athena. The ruins were truly spectacular (as the pictures will show) and with the mountains as a backdrop it was an awesome sight.

Sanctuary of Athena at Delphi

Following the visit was a short stop in beautiful Arachova for some shopping. This was not souvenir shopping. Our guide, Effie, informed us that here we would find the place to purchase unique jewellry - with four great stores side by side. Or, if we preferred, a marvellous store selling beautiful local products; leather goods, hand-made carpets, tapestries, tablecloths, you-name-it. We had been planning on buying a nice ring for Jane but the first stop for the group was the leather store. There begins one of the more humorous stories of our journey...

The store had some of the most amazing leather, rugs, etc. that we had seen. For example, Sonia tried on a beautiful mink coat priced at 1,500,000 drachmas. That equates to $7,500 US, so she put it right back on the rack - clever girl...right. It should be said, that a discount of 10-20%, depending on the purchase, would be given to the tour group. Not bad, huh?

Well, of course the salesman was impressed with the fact that Jane and I were the first ones to greet him in his own language, so he was eager to shower us with his attention. As luck - or fate - would have it Jane decided to heed his advice and try on a coat. This was no ordinary leather coat, mind you, it was made from antelope and fox. It came in many colours, the pelts were imported, and local craftsmen took over from there.

With the entire group voicing their preferences as to colour, we finally decided on green. This is one mighty fine coat and everyone agreed that it looked terrific on her. Jane raved about it's comfort and warmth. It should also be noted that the temperature was about 50oF (we were at an altitude of 960m and it was very windy). The story's not so funny so far, huh?

The famous Arachova coat

Perhaps it was the thin mountain air, or the fact that you could virtually reach up and touch the clouds that were rolling in (really), but both Jane and I were suddenly consumed by a case of brain-lock. After negotiating a price, which we quickly converted in our empty heads to Canadian currency, we could not even think of passing up this bargain. What a deal! Since our deal involved cash, the cousin of the proprietor was summoned to drive me to the nearest bank. Two withdrawls later (idiot!) I returned.

After paying and walking out, Jane realized that we had converted the exchange rate incorrectly, and for a terrifying few seconds had no idea how much money we just handed over. Why so pale, hon? Well, we just payed three times the price we thought. Fortunately, a vacation bonus and an ample sense of humour were with us. We decided to share our story with the others, and for the rest of the day I was the brunt of many jokes. All in good fun - it livened up the day. Everyone loved the coat on Jane and it will always remind us both of one of the most memorable days we've ever experienced.

Moving on....after dinner at our hotel...Sonia, George, Colleen, Tony and Marie joined us in a search for Metaxa (mmm, good!). The new friends that we've made on this trip have really added to the experience. What a bunch!

Tony painting the Sanctuary and
Colleen investigates the stranges shop ever

During our quest, we stumbled upon an Antiques shop crammed with the most incredible and odd assortment of items ever seen in one place by any of us. What a treasure trove - we could have poked around all night - but we were on a mission! So after about half an hour, off we went. It was indeed an unforgettable store, and we will return someday I promise.

We found an empty taverna where we spent a very enjoyable hour or two drinking local Metaxa. While exchanging addresses, we all complained about our own governments' ineptitude, Bill and Monica, Kosovo, in other words... serious stuff. After our league of nations debate, it was now quite late. We left the taverna and slowly staggered up the steep hill, turned left and even more slowly continued up a second hill, twice the size.

The happy gang finds Metaxa

By then, Tony and I were lagging behind, and he shared one of his many humorous thoughts with me. This one had to do with him approaching the centre stone at the theatre of Epidaurus - only realizing the significance of his location after realizing he needed to pass wind. He commented that he knew how a fish felt, wanting to avoid a standing ovation from the hundreds in the stands. I nearly wet myself listening to his story and found it even more difficult to climb the hill.

Another great view from the room

What a character, what a night.

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May 7 - Magnificent Delphi

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It's our last day as a complete group. Sonia, George, Colleen & Tony have one more day after this to visit Meteora, so it's just Marie left with us after lunch.

Today we visit the main site of Delphi, the museum and the Temple of Apollo, and it is magnificent. Words cannot portray the magnitude of this place. Pictures do, and I have writer's cramp, so I must move on.

After a long climb, we reach the ancient stadium. You can feel this history, it is so well preserved.

Temple of Apollo at Delphi

While there, the fun gang with us, we are swarmed by young Italian & Greek girls shouting "HELLO"! We aren't really sure what the heck is going on, but it is good for the ego. Nonetheless, we tell them George is a greek movie star, and scamper out of there quickly.

Stadium at Delphi. Site of the Pythian Games.

Many pictures later, it is time to leave Delphi, but in body only - never in mind. We head back to the hotel, after our last meal as a group, and board another bus for the return trip to Athens.

Temple of Apollo at Delphi

We hope to meet up with our new friends in Athens on Sunday night for dinner. Bye guys, we miss you already. Our new bus is a one day tour group and it is dull in comparison. We immediatly take over our usual seats at the back, and take in the views.

Some of the amazing views at Delphi

On the way back to Athens, the bus stops in Arachova (coat town). We've been there and done that, so we (Jane, Marie, and myself), in the allotted 20 minutes, decide to "do" the famous 300 steps. Only one problem - it's at least half a mile away.

Rob gets the laurel leaves from Effie
and conquers the Arachova steps with time to spare

"Right", says the new tour guide, "only time to take a picture - if we hurry".

"Right", says I, "we'll see about that".

We speed walk to the steps, at which point Marie and I begin our ascent. I toss my smoke, and off we go. A (very long) short time later, Jane is a dot taking our picture from below. We conquer the final step together, turn, and run back down. We speed walk (read: hussle our butts) back to the bus, only to beat the tour guide by five minutes. I light a smoke and make her wait.

Museum at Delphi

Hours later, we're back in Athens. It's just us now, so we go for dinner. Due to a nasty storm, we are unable to book our planned one day island cruise. It's saved us about $200, so we go for a nice dinner where they cook Jane's fish at the table.

Two hours later, my hand is numb, Jane's in bed, and the bartender stops selling me ouzo. Goodnight.

Note: Best day so far, we've done so much in four days that it feels like we've been here for weeks. Our fun gang is the main reason that this tour was so great. Effie, our tour guide, told me that I was her favourite, so I planted a kiss on her cheek. I know what she will dream tonight!

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May 8 - Athens Acropolis

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Didn't sleep very well last night (who left the balcony door open?) and awoke to the sound of church bells ringing ... 10 ft. away! ... KALIMERA!

After many coffees we were off to the travel agent to book ferrys from Athens to Naxos, Naxos to Santorini, and a flight from Santorini back to Athens :(

The Parthenon, Acropolis of Athens

That taken care of, we went to the Acropolis and incredibly, found it somewhat boring. That's not to suggest it's not indeed spectacular, we've just seen so many amazing places the last four days, and without the crowds to boot!

We had a chance meeting with Dick, Beth, Dave and Cathy (from our tour group) while there. Dick had returned from the tour to discover that his horse had gone off at 70-1 in it's maiden race. Soulmate came seventh but was not running a comfortable distance.

I quickly asked Dick to let us know when he found the right distance - as Jane and I would like an e:mail pronto for our chance to get rich.

After a couple of pictures we were off, only to soon find ourselves back at 'our' taverna - chatting with other Canadian travellers.

Of course, Terrys was happy to see us again (who wouldn't be?).

The Caryatics on the Erechtheon

We wrote postcards and had plenty of beer and sunshine (again).

View from the Acropolis

Great place, this - we'll be back for dinner! I don't think that I wrote this much in high school, but I've been swept up by the travel bug now.

It's almost time to go back to our hotel (Adams) to freshen up for dinner. Yassas!

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I'm back! After a couple more beers (Terrys has been good enough to keep the mugs on ice), we headed back to the hotel for a siesta.

The phone woke us up a couple of hours later and it turned out to be George and Sonia calling from the bar downstairs.

We had planned to meet them for dinner tomorrow, so this was a pleasant surprise!

We ended up at our usual taverna, where George did an admirable job ordering dinner. Get this - I ate octopus, among other Greek delicacies.

While sitting at the open window, Jane spotted Marie, who joined us. Marie had also found our hotel and left us a note. After dinner (which was veeeery good) Terrys brought over ouzo, courtesy of the owner. Again, I was forced to drink Sonias for her.

Then it was off to Brettos where we sampled 17 year old brandy. We purchased a big bottle of seven star Metaxa, and a smaller bottle of 35 year old Brettos brandy. Quite tipsy now, we say Kalispera and head back to the hotel.

We've all agreed to meet again in two years and rent a house in Crete.

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May 9 - National Archaeology Museum

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It's Mothers Day. Jane rang home but missed her mum. We were both rather hung over - what a surprise!

Rob at the National Archaeological Museum

We headed to the National Archaeological Museum, and as Marie had mentioned last night it was somewhat of a disappointment after the experiences we'd had on the tour. Don't get me wrong - there were some amazing things to see but it didn't live up somehow to expectations. Not too spoiled now are we?

Athena and bronze boy on a horse

Unable to get a cab, we decided to walk back to the Plaka ... lots of exercise this trip!

I love the geometric designs on these pots (says Jane)

Once we got our bearings (the Acropolis is good for that) it was an easy thirty minute walk.

After a lazy afternoon (no booze - still hurting) we got ready to go for dinner with George and Sonia. While waiting in the square outside the Adams Hotel, Tony and Colleen arrived - we were thrilled to see them - and went back in for a quick drink (so much for no booze), and George and Sonia arrived shortly after.

They took us to their restaurant this time and once again George took care of ordering for the group in Greek. We were really quite fortunate to have him around as he was able to order meat and fish platters not available on the menu.

The Acropolis was just yards away and the waiter took pictures of all of us with each of our cameras.

It must have been obvious that we were enjoying ourselves (Tony was there, after all!), because a lady at another table sent us a bottle of wine. With the day's hangovers long forgotten, we enjoyed another splendid meal. For dessert, the owner brought us complimentary fruit and yoghurt with honey. That helped to wash down the squid - YES, I ate squid!

A great night at Taverna Spiliatis

It was the last night in Athens for all of us - George and Sonia were finally flying home, Tony and Colleen were off to Skopelos, and we were off to Naxos. A bit sad, but great to have been able to get together again.

Before parting, lots of hugs and kisses and invitations, to visit Australia and New Zealand. We know that they truly mean it, and that e:mails will be a great way of keeping in touch.

Everyone has an early night - we have arranged for George Kokkotas to pick us up at 6:45 a.m. to take us to Piraeus. Although he doesn't come cheap for a simple transfer, he comes highly recommended and it will save us the headaches of an unknown port.

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May 10 - Piraeus to Naxos

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Morning arrives quickly in Athens.

We both slept well, which means that we only woke up four or five times during the night. Every night at 4:00 a.m. is when the Plaka has their garbage disposal done. Crash, bang, crash. I guess it's the only good time, but they're obviously non-union!

My stomach rumbled all night – must have been a great battle between Octopus and Squid. Oh well, victory was mine (they're still with me).

George Kokkotas arrived early, and we knew right away that we had made a wise choice. Good English, very friendly, and in no hurry. He dropped us at the boat, and made sure our luggage was properly stored, and was on his way. The extra cost for George, over a normal taxi, was well worth it to us. Pireaus is a big, bustling port and anyone else would have left us to our wits.

From the ferry in the port of Piraeus

Ten minutes later, we spot Tony & Colleen boarding the ferry beside ours. These "ferries" are actually cruising ships about two or three football fields in length. A loud whistle from me gets Tony's attention, and we take pictures of each other waving from our respective ferries. Fare well in the islands, friends.

On a humorous note, we laugh at Mr. Last second, who can touch our boat us it pulls away, while his friends are gesticulating madly. It's a long trip, so it's time to settle in.

Stopping in Ios

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We finally made it! We're no longer on the boat. We are now in Naxos, at our new home, the lovely Hotel Grotta.

The Hotel Grotta with our lovely view of the Portara

About 15 minutes after we arrive, Marie strolls up to greet us. She also has a room here, so we are together again. The three of us spend the evening on our balcony drinking beer.

The sunset is just so-so, but is spectacular just the same. Hopefully there will be no clouds tomorrow.

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May 11 - Delos & Mykonos

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We get up bright and early, today the three of us have booked a day trip to Delos and Mykonos.

The seas are a touch rough – waves are at 2-3 metres. Our ferry, the Naxos Star, glides through the waves effortlessly. This is a luxurious boat and we all enjoy the huge spray created each time she crests a wave.

Choppy waters off Mykonos

After an hour or so, we reach the island of Delos. Legend has it that no one can be born or die here, and the only inhabitants are the 16 museum staff.

On the island of Delos

We have only two and a half hours here so we have to move quickly. The ruins are scattered everywhere, in great quantities, all over the island. Although we have seen many ruins on our trip, nothing compares to the quantity found on Delos.

Because we are limited for time, we seem to be ignoring 90% of the things we walk by - and that's really hard to believe, when you think about it! We have decided to look for the spectacular, rather than just the average. It's a big island, and there's not much time.

Roaming the ruins of Delphi

The main sites on our agenda were the Lion Terrace, the Temple of Dionysus (for the interesting pictures!), and the mosaic floors. We were able to find all of these. Unfortunately, a lot of the mosaics have deteriorated in the open air. We did, however, find some that were in excellent condition - and tucked away.

Temple of Dionysos, Anthony & Cleopatra, & an island of ruins

Many of the early houses had a hole in the floor. As it turned out, these people, so many thousands of years ago, had built an elaborate cistern bringing fresh water directly under the city. These wells looked to be at least 40-50 ft. deep. It was really amazing to think about just how advanced their construction techniques were.

After Delos, it was a twenty-minute trip to the cosmopolitan Mykonos. We decided to have a beer immediately (the salt water of the Aegean had parched us!).

Arriving in Mykonos

We found that the allotted three and a half hours was not nearly enough to "do" Mykonos, so we chose to saunter around the beautiful streets, checking out the shops. The streets there were really confusing – narrow and winding mazelike – all the better to deter raiding pirates – us too!

We eventually board our "luxury ship" and head back to Naxos. After almost disembarking at Paros we decided to wait for our own island – that was close!

The streets of Mykonos

When we actually DID arrive at Naxos, the three of us decided to buy some meat, cheese, bread, tzatziki, olives, wine and beer – and eat dinner on our balcony. The two litre bottle of lovely 'Apelia' rose cost a whopping 940 drachma – cheaper than our coffee this morning – no wonder we like it here! Again, we had clouds wander through our sunset but nobody cared - it was beautiful.

It had been a long day, so we said goodnight to Marie and decided to crash early. This would be the last time we need our alarm clock because from now on it's "beach time"!

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May 12 - Naxos Beaches

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It's finally beach day on Naxos! We plan on taking full advantage of being in the Greek Islands.

Marie went off on her own and we made tentative plans to meet her at Agia Anna. As it turned out, she had her own adventure and we didn't see her until much later on.

We found Agia Anna a bit busy, so we wandered down the beach to Agios Prokopios - a much better beach. We walked a couple of kilometers until we found a good spot. The beach seemed to be almost deserted. Those around us were naked, so we joined in! (When in Greece, why not?) The water was freezing cold but we went in to cool down, nevertheless.

Agia Anna, Naxos

After about three hours in the sun, we headed to a little taverna for a bite to eat, and a couple of cold drinks. It was at this point that our day become somewhat interesting – hard to believe, I know, after going nude in public for the first time!

Agios Prokopios, Naxos

After our meal, which was quite filling, we decided to walk back to the hotel. Since the bus ride had only taken about fifteen minutes, we figured on about an hour-long walk. We knew the general direction to go, so off we went.

The road we were on eventually turned into a dirt road, but that didn't deter us. Our dirt road soon ended – but we were now inspired (and didn't want to turn back), so we forged ahead. Some houses below us had cars in the driveways, so we were still confident.

The dirt path we were on soon ended, and we found ourselves on what a donkey would have balked at. Hmmmm……. To turn back now, after half an hour of walking, would be counter-productive, and we're bound to find a road soon, right?……..WRONG!

The way home...? not so much

Our donkey path soon disappeared only to be replaced by thick, prickly underbrush and sharp bushes. Still determined, we went on. How stupid are we anyway? Here we were, half way up the side of a mountain, no paths anywhere, with our beach mats in hand.

Shortly after, as we approached the "turn" on this beast of a mountain, we were most disappointed to find ourselves gazing down at the tops of large trees growing out of the deep crevace ahead.

We looked down at the treetops and after briefly considering it (crossing, that is), we decided to climb to the top of our friend, the mountain. What's another 500 ft. climb? Shortly thereafter, it became impossible to climb further – we were up to our knees in the prickly bushes now.

We finally decided to turn back, and on our way we spotted spent shotgun shells. Time to pick up the pace, hon. We finally made it back to the dirt road and we were STILL going to walk back.

A few minutes later, faced with a crossroads, I had a splendid idea. We walked back to a hotel that we had passed, and asked about calling a taxi.

Lucky for us, we found a tour bus operator and guide in the foyer of the hotel. The tourguide spoke english, and offered us a ride back into town. Brilliant! On the way, (we were the only passengers), she asked where we were staying. As it was miles from where we were to be dropped off, she told the driver to go out of his way and drop us off at the door of our hotel. Lovely lady! Talk about Greek hospitality. I have rarely been so grateful to see a hotel, believe me.

Marie showed up five minutes later, we watched another brilliant sunset, and went for dinner at our friendly waiter's restaurant – Vasillas. By now we look like red lobsters, and we're in need of Noxzema. Since tomorrow is Marie's last day, we arrange to meet at lunch to see her off.

Dinner at Vasillis'

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Later - a couple of ouzos with Dimitrius back at the hotel, and then sleep, lovely sleep.

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May 13 - A lazy day in Naxos

2009-02-01T11:33:00.000-08:00

A very slow, lazy, day on Naxos.

The kind of day you could really get used to.

We saw Marie off and got some pictures of her waving from the ferry,while she took pictures of us waving from the dock.

After shopping for Kathy's birthday present, we explored the sleepy venetian Kastro area of Naxos Town.

The afternoon was spent people-watching on the harbourfront - out of the sun!

We spent a quiet evening writing postcards - requiring $36 worth of stamps!

It's absolutely beautiful here and very relaxing.

The sunburn's beginning to fade so more beach tomorrow ... until then, kalinichta.

Venetian kastro of Naxos

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May 14 - Naxos Chora Port

2009-02-01T11:32:00.001-08:00

An even slower day in Naxos.

Port and Chora of Naxos

We got up at about 9:00 a.m. and went down to the port area for breakfast. "Cafe Lotto" offered up eggs, bacon, toast, juice, and a bottomless cup of joe for only $6.50 (Canadian), so we settled in.

From there, it was a bus ride to Agia Prokopias. We do like it there. It seemed everyone in our area was nude (maybe that's why I like it so much), although more studs than babes today.

Jane had her first totally nude day at the beach, and joined me skinny dipping in the Aegean. Whoa! Slow down girl! After about three hours, it was decided that we needed a beer.

Cafes on the waterside of Naxos Town

To hell with the bus, we still weren't sure where you got it so we grabbed a taxi back for the quick ride and Jane was finally able to try some "Zorba" toast.

It was siesta time, and the town was quiet and strangely peaceful - a rarity in this day and age.

Even the water was calm, and sitting at the tavernas along the port was a pleasant way to spend the day.

While relaxing with a couple of cold ones (or trying to, we're both burnt to a crisp), I mentioned off-handedly that I'd love to hear some Pink Floyd ("The Wall" actually), and with yet another magical Greece experience, no more than three minutes later, the taverna next to us cued up "Dark Side of the Moon".

Jane went in and asked the guy to turn it up, and since it was his favourite album, he was happy to oblige. After a while, we headed home where much cream was applied.

We napped for a while, and then dressed for another lovely meal at our favourite Taverna, where Vasillas had another 'romantic table' for us, of course!

The pace of life here is something I could really get used to.

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May 15 - Naxos Concert

2009-02-01T11:31:00.000-08:00

All in all, yet another slow day in Naxos. We had planned on going to the beach, but that was postponed due to our sunburns. Mine seems to be losing it's sting, but I'm afraid Jane hasn't been as fortunate.

ever so slightly sun burned - everywhere - ouch

We spent the day in town shopping for souveniers and actually did pretty well. Then we decided it was time for a beer so returned to the bar with the Pink Floyd tunes.

While sitting there enjoying a Heineken, (I'm off Mythos now), we watched a bunch of guys setting up banks of speakers and lights on the marble square. It seemed that there was going to be a concert later tonight and every indication was that it was going to be loud.

I asked our waiter if Pink Floyd, or maybe even The Rolling Stones, were in town? It was actually one of the 'most-famous' bands in Greece and they were doing a free concert. The waiter mentioned that they would play songs that we would recognize.

A short while later, the band arrived and sat beside us, but seemed to me to be pretty much unnoticed by the general public. We decided to test their worth as musicians, and requested some more Pink Floyd (yes, again). He was happy to do so, but unfortunately couldn't turn it up too loud.

Rob trying NOT to see the octopus' hanging in the sun
and our friends at the Hotel Grotta

Anyway, half the CD had gone by without the slightest hint of recognition by any of them – we were somewhat bemused. At that point, "Time" began to play (bells, alarms, etc.) and the entire band whipped their heads around wondering what the racket was.

Finally, one guy (the one with grey hair), looked at another and uttered his first english word – 'Floyd????' I could hardly wait for the show now, and wondered what other English songs they would play in addition to their own 'greats'. We decided to come back later anyway, and check them out.l

After returning to the hotel for a siesta (I'm really starting to like that idea!), we headed out for a bite to eat and to check out the show.

Sunset view from our balcony

The sun was setting, and we wandered further down the port tonight chosing one of the tavernas just a few feet away from the water's edge. Feeling like aquick bite, I chose my first unadventurous meal - or so I thought.

I ordered a beef burger, and Jane had the kalamari special. I only mention this, because when the food arrived, I had 2 patties on a plate, with chips, and Jane had a plate of what appeared to be onion rings and chips. This came with half a loaf of bread, one fork and one knife. A bit odd really, as the kalamari was hot and greasy and I had no bun.

After stick-handling our way through the meal, it was off to the concert.

The concert in Naxos

It was certainly a unique assortment of 'fans' ranging from the elderly to the very young - and there were LOTS of the very young. We grabbed a couple of seats at a nearby patio, and waited for the opening act to disappear. Finally they did, and it was time for "The Really Big Shew" as good old Ed Sullivan would have said.

We had surmised earlier, while people watching, who played what instrument. We were miles off!

As it turned out, they were all good musicians but the singing, and the fact that all of their songs were indistinguishable, kind of sucked. Hey! it's Aerosmith!! No English tunes either, although they attempted the beginning of 'Wish You Were Here' – Floyd again – until quickly morphing into one of their own tunes. Oh well, what can you do?

For our last night in Naxos, it had been a laugh, if nothing else.

The Hotel Grotta in Naxos

Tomorrow we leave for Santorini which means leaving our favourite hotel, where we were made to feel like family. Thanks Dimitrius and Nikki, your kindiness and hospitality here really made our stay memorable. You work very hard at the Hotel Grotta and it shows. We will recommend your hotel to anyone visiting Naxos.

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May 16 - Naxos to Santorini

2009-02-01T11:06:00.000-08:00

Yet another beautiful day in Naxos! No clouds again, and at least 30C (86F) for the sixth straight day, although it drops off noticeably at night.

View from our room every morning in Naxos

Poor Jane had another restless night, but her sunburn may have run it's course. Oh yeah, I forgot to mention from yesterday that Jane bought a shirt that defines her new attitude to a "T"! (get it?)

It goes like this ... Then elpiso tipote, The fovame tipote, Ime leftheros.

Which can be translated to ... I want/(hope) for nothing, I fear nothing, I am free.

I believe that this quote shall soon be striking fear into the hearts of everyone at "Company X" - I can hardly wait. We'll get a plaque for her office - in Greek of course, – as a friendly reminder.

Anyhoo, back to the task at hand.

We did a bit of souvenier shopping, had breakfast in the port area and basically took it easy while we waited for our departure time to arrive. We spent our last one and a half hours at the Hotel Grotta where Jane read up on Santorini and I wrote a few words in the hotel guestbook.

Ios Ferry stop along the way to Santorini

After having our picture taken with Dimitrius and Nikki (such nice people!), it was off to the ferry. The "Express Olympia" was a polluting, foul-smelling ferry, but at least it didn't sink. We headed off for Santorini, via Ios.

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A couple of hours later, belching a thick plume of smoke into the pristine sky, our ferry arrived at Santorini. This had to be one of the best views of the entire trip. The port is located in the middle of the caldera, and the sheer cliff walls surrounding it certainly were top quality eye-candy.

First glimpses - sailing in to the caldera of Santorini

It made you pause and consider the enormity of the volcanic eruption which devastated the entire region thousands of years ago. Apparantly it created a tsunami over 200 metres in height (over 60 stories!), and the tremors could be felt as far away as Sweden.

No skeletal remains, either human or animal (except for 1 pig), have been found at the site of Akrotiri, signifying that the locals had advance warning and fled the island. My bet is the tsunami got them regardless!

The entrance to the harbour was an incredible sight, and perched along the cliff tops were houses, churches, and of course, magnificent hotels.

Buildings perched on the edge of the cliffs

To our right, maybe 50 yards away, was the volcanic island that had been created by the eruption. Not what I would call a welcoming place, it was completely black with jagged outcrops of rock covering the entire surface.

Once on shore, we located one of the things that Jane had looked forward to seeing for months. It was a sign saying "Walker - Lava Oias" being held in the air by a local taxi driver.

While everyone else scrambled for transportation, we relaxed and enjoyed the breath-taking view. The ride up the cliff face was breath-taking for reasons other than the view, but I suppose that our driver knew the roads well enough to ensure our safety. Yeah - whatever!

We were dropped off at our hotel, and were nearly killed walking down the stairway(?) to the reception area.

We navigated the path to our cave house, one of only six, and were greeted by the most magnificent view overlooking the caldera. After a short introduction to our room by our hostess (including which switches to flip for hot water for showering, and for power to the kitchenette), we took a short walk into town.

Home for the next week

"Into town" isn't really an accurate description though, as Oia is actually shaped in a long line running along the top of the cliff. While on this short excursion, we saw many small markets, restaurants, handicrafts and jewellery stores. We bought some bread, cheese, pastries and beer and returned to the cave house for a quick and easy meal. When we returned, our hostess Pipitsa brought us a bottle of local wine and was eager to offer us tomatoes, eggs, carrots, or anything else we might need.

Tonight will be an early night so that we can have an easy day tomorrow. I'm starting to really like this place.

Oh yeah, almost forgot... we called home and found out that the Leafs are now up 3 games to 2 against Pittsburgh. Going home might be a little less painful - but painful nonetheless .

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May 17 - Santorini 'Hello Rock'

2009-02-01T11:05:00.000-08:00

It really is a bit of a culture shock between Naxos and Santorini - which is much more populated with, and geared towards, tourists. It's a pretty easy adjustment though. Our 'house' is really lovely. Last night I felt like a bear, sleeping in the cave, and it was so dark that you couldn't see a THING.

The views are really dramatic, and every hotel and taverna seems to have one. I wish we were filthy rich because I can already see that the stores all sell unique and beautiful merchandise. The jewellery is by far the nicest I have seen.

Well, I'm off to have my shower now (the fovame tipote - I fear nothing) and then it's off to the nice bakery we've found for a breakfast of fresh croissants. It's a BEAUTIFUL day, so we'll hang on the veranda for a few hours admiring the view.

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Well, it was more like 8 hours on the veranda. We met our neighbours for the week - Liz and Eoin. They are a couple of years younger than us, and we get along quite well. They're from Michigan so we can relate on all sorts of things.

We also met Marcus, who came by with a brochure offering a variety of massage treatments. Marcus certainly has a unique perspective, and we offered up a beer which he readily accepted. Actually, we had just returned from cleaning out the second market of it's tall Heineken's, so we were enjoying our day.

Liz polished off the local wine over the course of the day, and it was happily refilled. Marcus told us that our neighbour below us (with the pool) was none other then the German billionaire owner of Siemens, and that he only spent about a week here each year. A few beers later, Jane was taking my picure as I lay naked by his pool. What the hell - why not?

Marcus had left to build a barbeque at his place (just below Siemens') and offered us some speakers for our portable CD player. Jane and Liz went down to get them, and apparantly he has quite the place.

He also suggested we have dinner at Skala, where his friend and neighbour was a waiter. His name was Yrgos, and oddly he knew who we were right away. Not much privacy when you're dancing and singing on Santorini balconies!

Santorini at Night

The four of us had a nice dinner, and decided to make sure that we booked a tour tomorrow to see the island by bus. It would likely include Akrotiri, Ancient Thira, and of course some wine tasting. Eoin mentioned renting a car, so we'll have to hitch a ride into Thira with him. We're running low on cash, and there are no ATM's in Oia.

cats of Santorini

All in all, the first day of our last leg was a lot of fun. Jane quickly made friends with a kitty, and we fed him milk (ours) and liverwurst (Eoin's - to his dismay).

Too cloudy for a spectacular sunset, but later on the stars looked amazing. From our veranda, Thira looks eerily similar to Lisa Simpson's science experiment!

I wonder just what's in store for us tomorrow - with this crowd it could be anything. Until then ... to the batcave.

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May 18 - Fira & Santorini Mou

2009-02-01T11:04:00.000-08:00

Woke up, got out of bed ...can't recall the rest of the lyrics, but I had a couple of coffees (filter!) and let Jane sleep in. It looks to be another 90 degree day in Santorini - how many in a row is that now?

Views from the balcony

Thanks for the speakers Marcus, I love coffee with Brian Ferry. I must have smoked way too much yesterday, because all I can taste is ashtray. Marcus would be pleased as he had preached against tobacco all night.

We began our day by relaxing on the patio. Our plan was to go into Fira and find an ATM. Liz and Eoin joined us on our bus trip into town. Once in Fira, we quickly became solvent again. We also picked up a USA Today, and Jane was thrilled to see the racing results (who wouldn't be when their drivers finished 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 5th in the race?).

We walked around Thira and checked out the shops. As far as I'm concerned, I'm just thrilled to have stayed in Oia - far less tourists. We had a nice lunch at a small taverna, and then grabbed a taxi back.

View of the Kameni Islands and cruise ship from Fira

Once back, we popped into the market (run by a guy from Toronto - small world) and picked up a dozen tall Heinekens and some munchies. We had made plans with Marcus to go out to dinner to Santorini Mou.

According to Marcus, you got some live local music and people joined in the jam session. With that in mind, we prepared by spending the afternoon drinking all of the beers and lying in the sun. Unfortunately, Jane and I had both began peeling but we toughed it out.

Once the sun was no longer available on our patios, the four of us used the cool white rooftop below us - Siemens' again! - until it was time to get ready for dinner. Jane looked hot in her sexy burgundy dress, I must say.

The relaxing part of the vacation

Marcus was tardy, so Eoin and I went out to get more beer. When we returned, Marcus had arrived and he had with him an old three-stringed instrument from Russia. He played it throughout our walk to the restaurant (uphill the whole way, coming back should be easier) and it seemed as if we were there in no time at all.

We sat down and almost immediately two musicians began playing. They were very good together, and you could plainly see that they were having fun.

We ordered some appetizers - greek salad, tzatziki, skordalia, fava, and lots of bread - and Marcus would occasionally sit with the two musicians, or boggle our minds with some of his philosophies.

Santorini Mou (in the day time)

We ordered our main dishes about an hour later, and they came individually over a span of about half an hour. There was no rush at this place.

The host showed us a guestbook which people had signed, and in it was a picture of Jennifer Anniston. There was plenty of red wine, so we just sat back and enjoyed the show.

The 'band' (one guy was the owner of the taverna) was right into it now, and it was very entertaining. Oddly enough, the couple beside us were enjoying it too.

I say oddly, because they were German punk-rockers, and fully decked out. He had a bright pink mohican, at least 20 earrings, and 4 or 5 nose rings. He didn't fit in with the rest of the crowd, but nobody cared, it was that kind of place.

Later on, after the band officially ended their gig, I followed Marcus into another room. He was soon strumming out notes and was joined by the second band member. I quickly rounded up the rest of our table and for the next hour and a bit we watched an excellent private performance.

The band guy was really impressive, and Marcus was surprisingly good as well. While we watched them, Eoin was sketching "band guy", and that turned out to be amazing as well. When "band guy" finally called it quits, Eoin presented him with the picture he had drawn. "Band guy" was quite pleased and must have shown it to the owner, as he burst into our room to shake hands with us all. "Band guy" tried to explain in broken English that he wanted Eoin to draw more hair.

The Owner came back with our first taste of raki - complimentary - and promised Eoin that his sketch would have a place of honour in the guest book.

For the last hour (I don't know what time it was - quite late, quite looped), Marcus played a classical guitar and sang tunes we all sort-of-knew the words to. Finally it was time to go, but nobody really wanted to, because it had been so much fun.

While we were eating, for example, a cat was sleeping on a customer's lap, a couple of other cats hung around us, and a big gorgeous dog kept climbing over me to get to the lamb chop bones (which the waiter had instructed me to eat with my hands - much better that way!).

While in the other room, which had fabulous accoustics by the way, two much smaller and extremely friendly dogs sat on my lap - and wouldn't budge for ages.

Anyway, home we went. The stairs that had failed to kill us when we first arrived, almost killed Jane tonight. There are no lights and it was a very un-even walk. As she stepped down from one step to the next, she planted her foot on a rounded rock that was part of the stairs, causing her ankle to give out and her to take a nasty tumble. The end result was a badly sprained ankle and a nasty gash just below her knee - poor girl. After such a great evening, what a way to end it.

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May 19 - Balcony with a caldera view

2009-02-01T11:03:00.000-08:00

Woke up to find that Jane's ankle was quite swollen, and that her knee was a mess. So much for the tan, hon.

Most of our tans had seriously began to peel off already, anyhow.

We spent the morning just taking it easy. Jane had planned on running a marathon, but had to give it a miss.

I feel so bad for her, it's been such a perfect holiday for both of us until now, and I can see that she's in quite a bit of pain. We put an icy towel around her ankle to bring down the swelling, and cleaned out her knee with supplies that Pipitsa had provided.

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Jane spent most of the afternoon napping, and hopefully the rest will have helped her. It's now almost midnight, my how time flies.

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The rest of the afternoon was pretty mellow. Eoin and Liz went into town for dinner and a sunset, but the clouds persisted. When they returned, they brought Jane some square bandages. They've invited us to dinner in Thira tomorrow, where they are meeting friends.

While they were here, we partied some more, and out of the blue Marcus arrived. We learned a lot more about him tonight and I must say that there are many things about this guy that I like. Where do I start?...

... A whole lot of stuff I can't tell you...
...which is too bad, it's very funny...
oh well...

Marcus shares his time between Santorini and New York or Boston. He rents his place year round, at a monthly rent equivalent to one night for a tourist. That means he only has to give a few massages a month to cover his expenses. He's been averaging a couple a day since we arrived, so Marcus must be doing alright.

He owns one pair of socks - bright blue - but generally only wears one at a time. No-one has actually asked him why. He is apparantly on one of the Oia sunset postcards. He also considers himself a bit of a playboy, and rightly so.

I could go on and on about him, our own Zorba the Greek - he's from another time and place. But in the end he's just another chapter in the story that is our Magical Journey.

Although completely different from all of the people and things that we've experienced thus far, he will soon be merged into memories we carry of this wonderful trip, and surprisingly he will not stand out too much.

I'll be back tomorrow.

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May 20 - Greece Holiday Recap

2009-02-01T11:01:00.000-08:00

Got up about 9:00 and dashed off to the market.

Cosimo (my new buddy from Toronto - he used to work at the same company as I do now) was happy to talk about anything and everything, as usual.

Liz and Eoin rented a car and hit the beaches. Eoin has promised to fill me in on the Leaf score (Game 6) as soon as they return. Jane, who is much better today, just requested Jon and Vangelis (good choice, babe).

It was the perfect song for the mood - "I'll Find My Way Home". We had. We made bacon and tomato sandwiches for lunch and since then it's been a case of 'soak in the view'.

While doing that, Jane met a knew dog friend. She was a lovely dog and we gave her a bunch of milk, a ham and cheese pastry, some Pringles, half a loaf of bread, water, and the deed to our house. Then, puppy crashed out on our patio with us for the rest of the afternoon.

Our new puppy friend

At this point, after eighteen days in Greece, I think that it's time for some of our casual statements and observations about this country. In no particular order:

The views are great no matter where you are
They have great potato chip flavours here (Oregano and Paprika!)
Santorini Mou, I love you
They don't hate tourists - even if they think you're American
I wish we were rich and didn't have to work
They have fries with everything
Chocolate ice cream is really good here
Bounty Ice Cream Bars!
The mainland has shrines on every corner of the road
Lemon Fanta
Almost everyone speaks English
We came to Santorini and didn't see a sunset... and didn't care!
Athens is as bad as everyone says, but the Plaka is great
Just sitting on the patio watching the swallows fly around is effective time management
Living in caves makes for better sleeping
The driving in Athens is horrendous
If the Greeks were able to invent plumbing so long ago, why haven't they improved it?
Don't even mention the showers
Bouzoukia music isn't bad
Our place in Oia is amazing
We prefer filter coffee
We might make Nafpaktos our second choice of place to live
The cave houses of Santorini win
Guys with loudspeakers should be pelted
Jane did a fantastic job setting up our vacation
Antique stores with AMAZING stuff
Writing postcards at Erato

In full relax mode in Santorini

I just found out the Leafs won Game 6 in overtime - woohoo! Your turn Jane, I'm going for some Heinekens.

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Well Rob, you've certainly done an amazing job with the Journal and I'm glad you've enjoyed the vacation as much as I have, hasn't it been wonderful?

Greece certainly is magical, isn't it? I've loved everything I've seen of Greece since my first glimpse out of the plane (er, excuse me John), and we've certainly met some wonderful people every day of our trip.

I just want to stay right here

I don't think I'm ready for a wrap-up, I want to savour every moment still.

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Okay, I'll take over for a bit. For our last night on Santorini, we're planning for a candle-light dinner on the patio. Jane doesn't care if we eat ice cream for dinner, but I bought some breads, cheeses, meats, and of course, beer. It should be lovely. I'm not ready to leave. I don't want to leave. I want to live here.

Well, at least we have the Plaka district tomorrow, but this is worlds away from that.

We miss our guys at home, so at least we have them to look forward to. It's been very easy to totally forget about the things that seemed important at home - our jobs, the Leafs, timetables, plans, whatever. We haven't watched any TV, we've only seen a few newspapers, and the CD's we brought with us only came out while in Santorini. For all we know, the Kosovo problem is over or World War III may have already commenced - who cares? This is the life.

We've decided to pose a question to ourselves and that is...which leg of the trip was your favourite? And the answers are:

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Any 'favourites' on this trip are difficult because it has all been so great. Santorini is so dramatic and beautiful and it feels like we've done more of a 'locals' thing since we had no inclination - and later no way - to leave our balcony. Santorini Mou was a wonderful experience, especially the back room with Marcus playing.

I'll have to pause for a bit now, because speak of the devil and he's just strolled through the front door.

.. A while later...

Naxos was great - I'll never forget the hospitality of Dimitrius and Nikki and the friendly atmosphere of the Hotel Grotta. Sunsets turned out to be the nicest there and it was such a quiet pace. Getting lost on the mountain was a laugh and 'baring it all' on the beach was an experience (and a pleasant one!). But, if I have to chose a 'favourite', it's the Mainland Tour. I loved seeing all the wonderful archaeological sites and we met great people (not that that part didn't continue). Perhaps because everything we experienced was for the first time in Greece - the hospitality, the gifts, the magic, the people - it was just so special.

I particularly enjoyed;

Walking about and getting lost in the Plaka
The wildflowers and the scent of the Peloponnese
Mycenae and seeing the Lion's Gate
The serenity and magic of Olympia
The exhilirating drive up the mountains of Parnassos
The clouds coming in at Arachova
All our friends - Tony and Colleen, Marie, George and Sonia (my other-side-of-the-world 'sister')
A brief glimpse at Nafpaktos
Writing postcards in the courtyard at Erato
The first beach ... and rushing through our lunch to get to it
Our tour guide Effie, and the bus-driver Tassos
The "second-class" tourists - all OUR friends- getting bumped up to "first-class"
My Shirley Valentine moment at dinner with the offensive tourists
The magnificence of Epidaurus and the hilarious story that later ensued
Watching the moon over Olympia
Replacing my Nana's butterfly broach
Our photo on the starting line at Olympia
Delphi
Rob enjoying Delphi and continually hunting for undiscovered treasures
No other tourists at the Temple of Athena
Tony wandering off to paint
And, although it almost made me sick at the time, I know I will enjoy my beautiful new coat for many years to come, to remind me of all this and the much more that I haven't written. Of course, there's still tomorrow...

And you, hon?

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He said: Well, it was going to be the same one that you picked, and for all those reasons and many others that you failed to mention.

Everything that we saw was extraordinary - from ruins to hotel room views.
Everybody (maybe not everybody), we became very good friends with- and I'm positive that we'll keep in touch with many of them.
It was a great night when all seven of us found the little Antique shop in Delphi while on a hunt for Metaxa.
Also, the fact that our original four day tour effectively tripled in duration, just without Effie, Tassos, and the bus.
The beautiful mountains and the invigorating climbs.
We had lots of laughs on top of it all.
It was also great to see that Jane was completely stress-free and was clearly absorbed by Greek culture. She has become quite good at speaking the language, and was able to give me all kinds of background info, such as archaeological facts or historic tidbits.

Right, enough reminiscing, as it turned out Eion and Liz returned from dinner at about midnight and came in for a nightcap. We stayed up for a while, but it's a travel day tomorrow, so we crashed out early.

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May 21 - Santorini & Mama's

2009-02-01T10:59:00.000-08:00

Up bright and early. I brought a bag full of butter, bread, and other basic staples down to Marcus.

He was quick to ask about going to Mama's for breakfast. We had already decided that we didn't have time to go, so we told him as much.

Marcus and 'Mama'

We made our way through our errands earlier than we had expected and ended up at Mamas, and guess who showed up? We hoped that Marcus didn't think we were trying to ditch him. He was right again, this was another great place.

Great food, and "Mama" made sure that we ate every bite...making us feel right at home. Afterwards, it was off to Santorini airport for our flight to Athens.

So long Santorini

After saying our good-byes, we were soon on our way. It was only a 40 minute flight, so we were back at our hotel in the Plaka 2 hours after take-off.

Mucho souvenier shopping was completed, then off to see Terrys and perhaps have an alcoholic beverage. Terrys seemed pleased to see us again. We returned again that night for dinner, but didn't stay late.

Souvenir shopping in Athens

Back at the hotel we asked for a 5 a.m. wake-up call - yeuch, back to normal tomorrow.

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May 22 - Athens Farewell

2009-02-01T10:57:00.000-08:00

Slept like crap, yet I was up at 4:50 a.m. no problem. Our taxi arrived early, so the driver joined us for coffee and breakfast, which the hotel had put on early for us.

We chatted with the taxi driver all the way to the airport. I wish we had met this guy when we arrived in Athens. He was wonderful, so we gave him triple the actual fare. And with that last magical experience, we began our long journey home and the planning of our return.

He said: The End

She said: Or is it just the Beginning?

See what this trip inspired at MagicalJourneys.com

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