May 10 - Piraeus to Naxos

Morning arrives quickly in Athens.

We both slept well, which means that we only woke up four or five times during the night. Every night at 4:00 a.m. is when the Plaka has their garbage disposal done. Crash, bang, crash. I guess it's the only good time, but they're obviously non-union!

My stomach rumbled all night – must have been a great battle between Octopus and Squid. Oh well, victory was mine (they're still with me).

George Kokkotas arrived early, and we knew right away that we had made a wise choice. Good English, very friendly, and in no hurry. He dropped us at the boat, and made sure our luggage was properly stored, and was on his way. The extra cost for George, over a normal taxi, was well worth it to us. Pireaus is a big, bustling port and anyone else would have left us to our wits.

From the ferry in the port of Piraeus

Ten minutes later, we spot Tony & Colleen boarding the ferry beside ours. These "ferries" are actually cruising ships about two or three football fields in length. A loud whistle from me gets Tony's attention, and we take pictures of each other waving from our respective ferries. Fare well in the islands, friends.


On a humorous note, we laugh at Mr. Last second, who can touch our boat us it pulls away, while his friends are gesticulating madly. It's a long trip, so it's time to settle in.

Stopping in Ios

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We finally made it! We're no longer on the boat. We are now in Naxos, at our new home, the lovely Hotel Grotta.

The Hotel Grotta with our lovely view of the Portara

About 15 minutes after we arrive, Marie strolls up to greet us. She also has a room here, so we are together again. The three of us spend the evening on our balcony drinking beer.

The sunset is just so-so, but is spectacular just the same. Hopefully there will be no clouds tomorrow.

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May 11 - Delos & Mykonos

We get up bright and early, today the three of us have booked a day trip to Delos and Mykonos.

The seas are a touch rough – waves are at 2-3 metres. Our ferry, the Naxos Star, glides through the waves effortlessly. This is a luxurious boat and we all enjoy the huge spray created each time she crests a wave.

Choppy waters off Mykonos

After an hour or so, we reach the island of Delos. Legend has it that no one can be born or die here, and the only inhabitants are the 16 museum staff.

On the island of Delos

We have only two and a half hours here so we have to move quickly. The ruins are scattered everywhere, in great quantities, all over the island. Although we have seen many ruins on our trip, nothing compares to the quantity found on Delos.

Because we are limited for time, we seem to be ignoring 90% of the things we walk by - and that's really hard to believe, when you think about it! We have decided to look for the spectacular, rather than just the average. It's a big island, and there's not much time.

Roaming the ruins of Delphi

The main sites on our agenda were the Lion Terrace, the Temple of Dionysus (for the interesting pictures!), and the mosaic floors. We were able to find all of these. Unfortunately, a lot of the mosaics have deteriorated in the open air. We did, however, find some that were in excellent condition - and tucked away.

Temple of Dionysos, Anthony & Cleopatra, & an island of ruins

Many of the early houses had a hole in the floor. As it turned out, these people, so many thousands of years ago, had built an elaborate cistern bringing fresh water directly under the city. These wells looked to be at least 40-50 ft. deep. It was really amazing to think about just how advanced their construction techniques were.

After Delos, it was a twenty-minute trip to the cosmopolitan Mykonos. We decided to have a beer immediately (the salt water of the Aegean had parched us!).

Arriving in Mykonos

We found that the allotted three and a half hours was not nearly enough to "do" Mykonos, so we chose to saunter around the beautiful streets, checking out the shops. The streets there were really confusing – narrow and winding mazelike – all the better to deter raiding pirates – us too!

We eventually board our "luxury ship" and head back to Naxos. After almost disembarking at Paros we decided to wait for our own island – that was close!

The streets of Mykonos

When we actually DID arrive at Naxos, the three of us decided to buy some meat, cheese, bread, tzatziki, olives, wine and beer – and eat dinner on our balcony. The two litre bottle of lovely 'Apelia' rose cost a whopping 940 drachma – cheaper than our coffee this morning – no wonder we like it here! Again, we had clouds wander through our sunset but nobody cared - it was beautiful.

It had been a long day, so we said goodnight to Marie and decided to crash early. This would be the last time we need our alarm clock because from now on it's "beach time"!

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May 12 - Naxos Beaches

It's finally beach day on Naxos! We plan on taking full advantage of being in the Greek Islands.

Marie went off on her own and we made tentative plans to meet her at Agia Anna. As it turned out, she had her own adventure and we didn't see her until much later on.

We found Agia Anna a bit busy, so we wandered down the beach to Agios Prokopios - a much better beach. We walked a couple of kilometers until we found a good spot. The beach seemed to be almost deserted. Those around us were naked, so we joined in! (When in Greece, why not?) The water was freezing cold but we went in to cool down, nevertheless.

Agia Anna, Naxos

After about three hours in the sun, we headed to a little taverna for a bite to eat, and a couple of cold drinks. It was at this point that our day become somewhat interesting – hard to believe, I know, after going nude in public for the first time!

Agios Prokopios, Naxos

After our meal, which was quite filling, we decided to walk back to the hotel. Since the bus ride had only taken about fifteen minutes, we figured on about an hour-long walk. We knew the general direction to go, so off we went.

The road we were on eventually turned into a dirt road, but that didn't deter us. Our dirt road soon ended – but we were now inspired (and didn't want to turn back), so we forged ahead. Some houses below us had cars in the driveways, so we were still confident.

The dirt path we were on soon ended, and we found ourselves on what a donkey would have balked at. Hmmmm……. To turn back now, after half an hour of walking, would be counter-productive, and we're bound to find a road soon, right?……..WRONG!

The way home...? not so much

Our donkey path soon disappeared only to be replaced by thick, prickly underbrush and sharp bushes. Still determined, we went on. How stupid are we anyway? Here we were, half way up the side of a mountain, no paths anywhere, with our beach mats in hand.

Shortly after, as we approached the "turn" on this beast of a mountain, we were most disappointed to find ourselves gazing down at the tops of large trees growing out of the deep crevace ahead.

We looked down at the treetops and after briefly considering it (crossing, that is), we decided to climb to the top of our friend, the mountain. What's another 500 ft. climb? Shortly thereafter, it became impossible to climb further – we were up to our knees in the prickly bushes now.

We finally decided to turn back, and on our way we spotted spent shotgun shells. Time to pick up the pace, hon. We finally made it back to the dirt road and we were STILL going to walk back.

A few minutes later, faced with a crossroads, I had a splendid idea. We walked back to a hotel that we had passed, and asked about calling a taxi.


Lucky for us, we found a tour bus operator and guide in the foyer of the hotel. The tourguide spoke english, and offered us a ride back into town. Brilliant! On the way, (we were the only passengers), she asked where we were staying. As it was miles from where we were to be dropped off, she told the driver to go out of his way and drop us off at the door of our hotel. Lovely lady! Talk about Greek hospitality. I have rarely been so grateful to see a hotel, believe me.

Marie showed up five minutes later, we watched another brilliant sunset, and went for dinner at our friendly waiter's restaurant – Vasillas. By now we look like red lobsters, and we're in need of Noxzema. Since tomorrow is Marie's last day, we arrange to meet at lunch to see her off.

Dinner at Vasillis'

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Later - a couple of ouzos with Dimitrius back at the hotel, and then sleep, lovely sleep.

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May 13 - A lazy day in Naxos

A very slow, lazy, day on Naxos.

The kind of day you could really get used to.

We saw Marie off and got some pictures of her waving from the ferry,while she took pictures of us waving from the dock.

After shopping for Kathy's birthday present, we explored the sleepy venetian Kastro area of Naxos Town.

The afternoon was spent people-watching on the harbourfront - out of the sun!

We spent a quiet evening writing postcards - requiring $36 worth of stamps!

It's absolutely beautiful here and very relaxing.

The sunburn's beginning to fade so more beach tomorrow ... until then, kalinichta.

Venetian kastro of Naxos

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May 14 - Naxos Chora Port

An even slower day in Naxos.

Port and Chora of Naxos

We got up at about 9:00 a.m. and went down to the port area for breakfast. "Cafe Lotto" offered up eggs, bacon, toast, juice, and a bottomless cup of joe for only $6.50 (Canadian), so we settled in.

From there, it was a bus ride to Agia Prokopias. We do like it there. It seemed everyone in our area was nude (maybe that's why I like it so much), although more studs than babes today.

Jane had her first totally nude day at the beach, and joined me skinny dipping in the Aegean. Whoa! Slow down girl! After about three hours, it was decided that we needed a beer.

Cafes on the waterside of Naxos Town

To hell with the bus, we still weren't sure where you got it so we grabbed a taxi back for the quick ride and Jane was finally able to try some "Zorba" toast.

It was siesta time, and the town was quiet and strangely peaceful - a rarity in this day and age.


Even the water was calm, and sitting at the tavernas along the port was a pleasant way to spend the day.

While relaxing with a couple of cold ones (or trying to, we're both burnt to a crisp), I mentioned off-handedly that I'd love to hear some Pink Floyd ("The Wall" actually), and with yet another magical Greece experience, no more than three minutes later, the taverna next to us cued up "Dark Side of the Moon".

Jane went in and asked the guy to turn it up, and since it was his favourite album, he was happy to oblige. After a while, we headed home where much cream was applied.

We napped for a while, and then dressed for another lovely meal at our favourite Taverna, where Vasillas had another 'romantic table' for us, of course!

The pace of life here is something I could really get used to.

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May 15 - Naxos Concert

All in all, yet another slow day in Naxos. We had planned on going to the beach, but that was postponed due to our sunburns. Mine seems to be losing it's sting, but I'm afraid Jane hasn't been as fortunate.

ever so slightly sun burned - everywhere - ouch

We spent the day in town shopping for souveniers and actually did pretty well. Then we decided it was time for a beer so returned to the bar with the Pink Floyd tunes.

While sitting there enjoying a Heineken, (I'm off Mythos now), we watched a bunch of guys setting up banks of speakers and lights on the marble square. It seemed that there was going to be a concert later tonight and every indication was that it was going to be loud.

I asked our waiter if Pink Floyd, or maybe even The Rolling Stones, were in town? It was actually one of the 'most-famous' bands in Greece and they were doing a free concert. The waiter mentioned that they would play songs that we would recognize.

A short while later, the band arrived and sat beside us, but seemed to me to be pretty much unnoticed by the general public. We decided to test their worth as musicians, and requested some more Pink Floyd (yes, again). He was happy to do so, but unfortunately couldn't turn it up too loud.

Rob trying NOT to see the octopus' hanging in the sun
and our friends at the Hotel Grotta

Anyway, half the CD had gone by without the slightest hint of recognition by any of them – we were somewhat bemused. At that point, "Time" began to play (bells, alarms, etc.) and the entire band whipped their heads around wondering what the racket was.

Finally, one guy (the one with grey hair), looked at another and uttered his first english word – 'Floyd????' I could hardly wait for the show now, and wondered what other English songs they would play in addition to their own 'greats'. We decided to come back later anyway, and check them out.l

After returning to the hotel for a siesta (I'm really starting to like that idea!), we headed out for a bite to eat and to check out the show.

Sunset view from our balcony

The sun was setting, and we wandered further down the port tonight chosing one of the tavernas just a few feet away from the water's edge. Feeling like aquick bite, I chose my first unadventurous meal - or so I thought.

I ordered a beef burger, and Jane had the kalamari special. I only mention this, because when the food arrived, I had 2 patties on a plate, with chips, and Jane had a plate of what appeared to be onion rings and chips. This came with half a loaf of bread, one fork and one knife. A bit odd really, as the kalamari was hot and greasy and I had no bun.

After stick-handling our way through the meal, it was off to the concert.

The concert in Naxos

It was certainly a unique assortment of 'fans' ranging from the elderly to the very young - and there were LOTS of the very young. We grabbed a couple of seats at a nearby patio, and waited for the opening act to disappear. Finally they did, and it was time for "The Really Big Shew" as good old Ed Sullivan would have said.

We had surmised earlier, while people watching, who played what instrument. We were miles off!

As it turned out, they were all good musicians but the singing, and the fact that all of their songs were indistinguishable, kind of sucked. Hey! it's Aerosmith!! No English tunes either, although they attempted the beginning of 'Wish You Were Here' – Floyd again – until quickly morphing into one of their own tunes. Oh well, what can you do?

For our last night in Naxos, it had been a laugh, if nothing else.

The Hotel Grotta in Naxos

Tomorrow we leave for Santorini which means leaving our favourite hotel, where we were made to feel like family. Thanks Dimitrius and Nikki, your kindiness and hospitality here really made our stay memorable. You work very hard at the Hotel Grotta and it shows. We will recommend your hotel to anyone visiting Naxos.

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May 16 - Naxos to Santorini

Yet another beautiful day in Naxos! No clouds again, and at least 30C (86F) for the sixth straight day, although it drops off noticeably at night.

View from our room every morning in Naxos

Poor Jane had another restless night, but her sunburn may have run it's course. Oh yeah, I forgot to mention from yesterday that Jane bought a shirt that defines her new attitude to a "T"! (get it?)

It goes like this ... Then elpiso tipote, The fovame tipote, Ime leftheros.

Which can be translated to ... I want/(hope) for nothing, I fear nothing, I am free.

I believe that this quote shall soon be striking fear into the hearts of everyone at "Company X" - I can hardly wait. We'll get a plaque for her office - in Greek of course, – as a friendly reminder.

Anyhoo, back to the task at hand.

We did a bit of souvenier shopping, had breakfast in the port area and basically took it easy while we waited for our departure time to arrive. We spent our last one and a half hours at the Hotel Grotta where Jane read up on Santorini and I wrote a few words in the hotel guestbook.

Ios Ferry stop along the way to Santorini

After having our picture taken with Dimitrius and Nikki (such nice people!), it was off to the ferry. The "Express Olympia" was a polluting, foul-smelling ferry, but at least it didn't sink. We headed off for Santorini, via Ios.

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A couple of hours later, belching a thick plume of smoke into the pristine sky, our ferry arrived at Santorini. This had to be one of the best views of the entire trip. The port is located in the middle of the caldera, and the sheer cliff walls surrounding it certainly were top quality eye-candy.

First glimpses - sailing in to the caldera of Santorini

It made you pause and consider the enormity of the volcanic eruption which devastated the entire region thousands of years ago. Apparantly it created a tsunami over 200 metres in height (over 60 stories!), and the tremors could be felt as far away as Sweden.

No skeletal remains, either human or animal (except for 1 pig), have been found at the site of Akrotiri, signifying that the locals had advance warning and fled the island. My bet is the tsunami got them regardless!

The entrance to the harbour was an incredible sight, and perched along the cliff tops were houses, churches, and of course, magnificent hotels.

Buildings perched on the edge of the cliffs

To our right, maybe 50 yards away, was the volcanic island that had been created by the eruption. Not what I would call a welcoming place, it was completely black with jagged outcrops of rock covering the entire surface.

Once on shore, we located one of the things that Jane had looked forward to seeing for months. It was a sign saying "Walker - Lava Oias" being held in the air by a local taxi driver.

While everyone else scrambled for transportation, we relaxed and enjoyed the breath-taking view. The ride up the cliff face was breath-taking for reasons other than the view, but I suppose that our driver knew the roads well enough to ensure our safety. Yeah - whatever!

We were dropped off at our hotel, and were nearly killed walking down the stairway(?) to the reception area.

We navigated the path to our cave house, one of only six, and were greeted by the most magnificent view overlooking the caldera. After a short introduction to our room by our hostess (including which switches to flip for hot water for showering, and for power to the kitchenette), we took a short walk into town.

Home for the next week

"Into town" isn't really an accurate description though, as Oia is actually shaped in a long line running along the top of the cliff. While on this short excursion, we saw many small markets, restaurants, handicrafts and jewellery stores. We bought some bread, cheese, pastries and beer and returned to the cave house for a quick and easy meal. When we returned, our hostess Pipitsa brought us a bottle of local wine and was eager to offer us tomatoes, eggs, carrots, or anything else we might need.

Tonight will be an early night so that we can have an easy day tomorrow. I'm starting to really like this place.

Oh yeah, almost forgot... we called home and found out that the Leafs are now up 3 games to 2 against Pittsburgh. Going home might be a little less painful - but painful nonetheless .

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