A Magical Journey - the first ...


If this is your first trip to Greece, then our Magical Journey will give you some good ideas for taking in the major sites and the must-see islands.

Our trip was 18 days, but the basic structure could easily be modified to suit your timetable. Our Magical Journey visits Athens, Mycenae, Epidauarus and Nafplio, Olympia, Delphi, Naxos, Delos, Mykonos and Santorini. We hope you enjoy it!

I first fell in love with Greece when I was young, and I learned that the labyrinth in the myth of Theseus and the Minotaur, was the Palace of Knossos in Crete. From then on, the stories took on a whole new meaning and opened a world into a fabulous and mysterious past where incredibly advanced thinking was taking place. I had an image of the island that was completely shattered when I discovered that the island of Crete had not one, but two major airports. My first realization of the intrusion of modern man into this mythical world.

I'm not old enough to remember the day Kennedy was shot, but I remember where I was the day they roped off the Parthenon. Terribly distressing news. The reports talked about vandalism and graffiti, and, although having had nothing to do with the roping off, the destruction from pollution.

So you see, my impression of Greece was that the magical land was lost. People went to "Greece" on fancy island cruise packages that didn't appeal to me in the least. I looked at one brochure that sailed 12 hours to get to Crete for a four hour stop-over, giving you from 7:00 a.m. to 11:00 a.m. to check out the Palace half an hour away and get back to your boat - yeah right! Not for me.

So I kind of forgot about Greece for a while, until just over a year ago when I began to plan our first real holiday in twelve years, and almost by accident Greece became our destination.

Our trip was completely planned on the internet, and it was perfect in every way and went well beyond our expectations. We had the perfect balance of discovery and relaxation, no difficult travel arrangements, breathtaking views from EVERY room we stayed in, we never rented a vehicle, and we discovered so much about Greece, and a lot about ourselves.

Yes, the Parthenon's roped off, but not much else is. Some areas of Greece have been over-developed by package tourism and unless that's what you're looking for - steer clear. Even if you do the main attraction islands as we did in our first trip, with a little planning and a little research, you can still find the real Greece, and you can still find the magic. I've become completely enthralled with this magical land, which DOES still exist.

Now without further ado, I shall turn you over to Rob, who discovered a talent for writing - and for providing a good laugh - as he documented our Magical Journey to Greece.

Much to his dismay, a little editing was necessary, mostly to protect the interesting individuals we met along the way ...

May 2 - Arriving in Athens

We made it! After what seemed to be an endless journey, we are finally here - our first trip to Greece.

The flights were basically a pain - seated near the throne on both legs - but Jane met a very helpful guy on the second half. 'John' pointed out all of the relevant sights from his window seat.

Poor guy just finished his masters in England and was coming home to fulfill his two year military obligation.

The rumours of some Greek taxi drivers are not exaggerated - the taxi driver that we had from the airport drove like a madman. To be perfectly honest, he would have scared Jacques (Villeneuve, that is) had he picked him up, but after all those hours of travel we were fine with his driving.

We checked in at the lovely Hotel Plaka and were soon strolling about Athens. The view from our room is one we will not soon forget. The Acropolis seems to be within arms reach!

The view from our room

After an impromptu tour of the Plaka district, we decide that Athens isn't nearly as bad as we had heard. We found a square with plenty of happy people, and decided to join them. We must have become somewhat delusional at that point, because an old man with a polaroid took our picture and charged us $7.50 for it (1,500 drachma).

After a few Heinekens, and a gift of owl's eyes from a jewellry store proprietor (blue charms for luck) for Jane, we're back to the hotel. Going to see the Acropolis and the museum in the morning.

Amphoras near the base of the Acropolis


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May 3 - Lost in the Plaka

So much for the Acropolis and the Museum.

We went for a stroll hoping to find the Adams Hotel. I say hoping with good reason - the streets here are like a maze, and the Plaka is fascinating.

After hours (and miles) of walking, it turns out that it's just around the corner!

Oh well, we met a waiter from La Castille (small world, a restaurant just down the street from us at home) and ended up on his patio drinking beer and ouzo, eating menzedes - ALL afternoon.

We wrote many a postcard, had many a laugh, and decided there was no place we'd rather be.

After a lengthy nap (christ, it's after 11:00!) we go out for dinner.

More owls eyes for Jane and souvlaki in another square. Virtually everyone here is incredibly nice.


Back at the hotel, we look at the illuminated Acropolis from our open window and sleep to the sounds of Greek singing and dancing down below.


Tomorrow we're up bright and early - our four day tour begins. For now, I shall say Kalispera!


A great spot for debating philosophy


May 4 - Mycenae, Epidaurus & Nafplio

What a great day! It's just after 10:00 and Rob and I are having a drink on our patio overlooking the harbour lights of lovely Nafplion.

This is the first day of our Classical Greece Tour. Our hotel, the Xenia Palace sits high atop the hill, right inside one of the two Venitian acropolis'.

We left Athens this morning and travelled first to the Corinth Canal.

Quite an impressive sight and we were lucky - a boat was just coming through. I got some pictures from the bus, but Rob was the one who ventured out on the bridge on foot to get the best shot. For me, just getting a little over the edge was more than enough.

After Corinth, we travelled through the Peleponnese and the Argolis region to Mycenae. I got a bit teary when I saw the lion gate - it took me right back to my grade 11 Ancient History class with Mrs. Weiss. I know I'm a nerd, but this is why and when I met Colleen, and the beginning of what would become some fabulous fun and friendships.

The Lion Gate at Mycenae

It amazes me how accessible the sights are. We were able to go everywhere - Agamemnon's tomb (although we now know it's too early to have been Aggie's), the omphalos 'beehive' tombs and right up to the top of the Acropolis.

We are starting to feel a bit like mountain goats - although not quite enough to contemplate the 999 steep steps up to Palamidi - the Nafplio acropolis.

The Argolis region smells beautiful (in greek = poli oRea) - orange trees, lemon trees, pistachio and olive trees as well as wildflowers everywhere you look. Everything is so lush - and the poppies, which seem to grow out of barren rock are the most beautiful shade of a deep blood red. It seems somehow symbolic of the heros and 'legends' that once lived amongst these bricks and looked out at these hills. After Mycenae, we travelled to the theatre at Epidaurus which was also incredible.

Reports have the seating capacity somewhere between 6 and 30 thousand, although I tend to believe it's more realistic at around 14-16,000. You can almost imagine what it would have been like in ancient times with the lively festivals. Disappointing to see that some people treated it with such disrespect as to pitch their garbage anywhere they liked - where's Dracos when you need him?

Theatre at Epidaurus

If you're visiting Greece in the summer months, you can take in a show at Epidaurus in July and August, which I would imagine would be quite special.

The view of the mountains is magical and tomorrow we have a long journey through them to reach Olympia. I can hardly wait.

If this trip continues to get better and better, as I suspect it will, the only way anything could be improved upon is if we come for six months next time.

Lovely view of tomorrow's destination

Our tour guide, Effie, is very well informed and paints a very good picture of the history and the love and passion that the Greeks have for their nation.


Before I go for the evening - I should mention that Athens is one wild town. After napping well into the evening yesterday I was awake to hear that the Plaka was partying well into the night, singing, dancing and general celebration of life until after 3 a.m.

We'll have to find that place when we go back in a few days.


May 5 - Olympia

We're writing this in catch-up mode. Just too much fun yesterday for writing about it. It's breakfast time on the 6th - coffee and Baileys for Rob (the hair of the dog!)

Yesterday we travelled over the entire Peloponnese - what a beautiful part of the country.

Wildflowers, hundreds of varieties, were everywhere. Sparta bushes (yellow flowers), Judas trees (pink/purple) and Mimosa trees (yellow berries) are new finds. Oleander grows everywhere but it's not yet in full bloom.

After a brief visit to Megalopolis and HOURS of bus ride, we reached Olympia. Incredible!


Despite the heavy earthquake destruction that once hid it completely, it is such an impressive site. We explored as much as we possibly could - going anywhere you want again - and toured the impressive Museum also.

Pediment statues from the Zeus Temple (Apollo in the centre)

We had to risk abandoning the education from our tour quide for a while in Olympia as it was just too enticing to stand still for long. I really could have spent a week in Olympia.


Tony disappeared for a while and found Phideas' workshop, which I didn't see, as we left much of the wonderful site unexplored. Good reason to return some day I say.

Entrance to the stadium at Olympia

Last night a group of us went to a Greek dancing show down the street and Rob and I both got up on the stage if you can believe it - OPA! Right after the first number, the dancers came off the stage and grabbed Sonia and I - which I really wasn't expecting at the beginning of the show - but well ... when in Greece.

Posing at what turns out to be the finish line at Olympia

After the show there was no stopping Rob - more beer and ouzos were called for and we talked with one of the dancers until well into the early hours.

We walked to the top of the hill but there wasn't much to see in the dark and we were disturbing the dogs - so we sat on our balcony and watched the biggest moon we've EVER seen rising very quickly over the mountains.

We had a laugh at dinner last night when we discovered that Rob had eaten goat - and hadn't known it! What more adventures await? ...


May 6 - Delphi & Arachova


First beach today - woohoo!

We left Olympia this morning - heading for Delphi this afternoon. We're driving along the coastal road and it's just amazing.

We stopped in Patras for a cup of coffee in the town square and everyone caught some sun.

We boarded a ferry from Rion to Antirion across the Gulf of Corinth, and stopped to take a few pictures at Nafpaktos (the loveliest little town I've seen yet!).

The pretty little town of Nafpaktos

We stopped for lunch at a gorgeous taverna right by the water. George and Sonia introduced us to bread with Greek olive oil and balsamic vinegar - fabulous. We all ate up quickly and headed for the pebble beach to put our feet in the water and lie in the sun. Truly heaven!

The water calling us from the lunch table

We're about to start climbing up to Delphi now so I'll go and watch the beautiful views. Delphi is high atop Mt. Parnassos and we're currently low on the coast - it's going to be an interesting ride!

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My turn! - we have arrived at Delphi, and let me say this...WHAT A RIDE! The bus ride was awesome to say the absolute least. The scenery was incredible.

Half the people on the bus (there are only 15 of us - and 50 seats) slept the entire time, and they missed plenty. Sonia and George (our new pals!) didn't have the parts....perhaps a little too much dancing last night? Anyway, I digress...

The ride up to Delphi

The roads that wind through the mountains are petrifyingly narrow - at the best of times. And when you add in the style of driving here.........well.........you get the picture. These roads wind up and through the mountains, with hairpin turns (and I DON'T use the term lightly) every mile or two. Once in a while, the side of the mountain would seemingly swallow up the edge of the road, leaving us a view of nothing but a 3,000 foot drop to the valley. I pressed my face to the window, but could see NO road, NO shoulder, NO kidding!

After saying a silent prayer of thanks for Tassos, our skilled driver, it was time to admire...the view, the mountains, life in general. A ride like that will do that to you. I could go on and about this leg of our journey, but I won't. We will never forget it, I assure you.

We arrived at Delphi a few hours later and sat down to a quick lunch - time to start sight-seeing. Delphi will be a two day stop, so after a long journey we visited the lower Sanctuary of Athena. The ruins were truly spectacular (as the pictures will show) and with the mountains as a backdrop it was an awesome sight.

Sanctuary of Athena at Delphi

Following the visit was a short stop in beautiful Arachova for some shopping. This was not souvenir shopping. Our guide, Effie, informed us that here we would find the place to purchase unique jewellry - with four great stores side by side. Or, if we preferred, a marvellous store selling beautiful local products; leather goods, hand-made carpets, tapestries, tablecloths, you-name-it. We had been planning on buying a nice ring for Jane but the first stop for the group was the leather store. There begins one of the more humorous stories of our journey...

The store had some of the most amazing leather, rugs, etc. that we had seen. For example, Sonia tried on a beautiful mink coat priced at 1,500,000 drachmas. That equates to $7,500 US, so she put it right back on the rack - clever girl...right. It should be said, that a discount of 10-20%, depending on the purchase, would be given to the tour group. Not bad, huh?

Well, of course the salesman was impressed with the fact that Jane and I were the first ones to greet him in his own language, so he was eager to shower us with his attention. As luck - or fate - would have it Jane decided to heed his advice and try on a coat. This was no ordinary leather coat, mind you, it was made from antelope and fox. It came in many colours, the pelts were imported, and local craftsmen took over from there.

With the entire group voicing their preferences as to colour, we finally decided on green. This is one mighty fine coat and everyone agreed that it looked terrific on her. Jane raved about it's comfort and warmth. It should also be noted that the temperature was about 50oF (we were at an altitude of 960m and it was very windy). The story's not so funny so far, huh?

The famous Arachova coat


Perhaps it was the thin mountain air, or the fact that you could virtually reach up and touch the clouds that were rolling in (really), but both Jane and I were suddenly consumed by a case of brain-lock. After negotiating a price, which we quickly converted in our empty heads to Canadian currency, we could not even think of passing up this bargain. What a deal! Since our deal involved cash, the cousin of the proprietor was summoned to drive me to the nearest bank. Two withdrawls later (idiot!) I returned.

After paying and walking out, Jane realized that we had converted the exchange rate incorrectly, and for a terrifying few seconds had no idea how much money we just handed over. Why so pale, hon? Well, we just payed three times the price we thought. Fortunately, a vacation bonus and an ample sense of humour were with us. We decided to share our story with the others, and for the rest of the day I was the brunt of many jokes. All in good fun - it livened up the day. Everyone loved the coat on Jane and it will always remind us both of one of the most memorable days we've ever experienced.

Moving on....after dinner at our hotel...Sonia, George, Colleen, Tony and Marie joined us in a search for Metaxa (mmm, good!). The new friends that we've made on this trip have really added to the experience. What a bunch!

Tony painting the Sanctuary and
Colleen investigates the stranges shop ever



During our quest, we stumbled upon an Antiques shop crammed with the most incredible and odd assortment of items ever seen in one place by any of us. What a treasure trove - we could have poked around all night - but we were on a mission! So after about half an hour, off we went. It was indeed an unforgettable store, and we will return someday I promise.

We found an empty taverna where we spent a very enjoyable hour or two drinking local Metaxa. While exchanging addresses, we all complained about our own governments' ineptitude, Bill and Monica, Kosovo, in other words... serious stuff. After our league of nations debate, it was now quite late. We left the taverna and slowly staggered up the steep hill, turned left and even more slowly continued up a second hill, twice the size.

The happy gang finds Metaxa

By then, Tony and I were lagging behind, and he shared one of his many humorous thoughts with me. This one had to do with him approaching the centre stone at the theatre of Epidaurus - only realizing the significance of his location after realizing he needed to pass wind. He commented that he knew how a fish felt, wanting to avoid a standing ovation from the hundreds in the stands. I nearly wet myself listening to his story and found it even more difficult to climb the hill.

Another great view from the room

What a character, what a night.


May 7 - Magnificent Delphi


It's our last day as a complete group. Sonia, George, Colleen & Tony have one more day after this to visit Meteora, so it's just Marie left with us after lunch.

Today we visit the main site of Delphi, the museum and the Temple of Apollo, and it is magnificent. Words cannot portray the magnitude of this place. Pictures do, and I have writer's cramp, so I must move on.

After a long climb, we reach the ancient stadium. You can feel this history, it is so well preserved.

Temple of Apollo at Delphi

While there, the fun gang with us, we are swarmed by young Italian & Greek girls shouting "HELLO"! We aren't really sure what the heck is going on, but it is good for the ego. Nonetheless, we tell them George is a greek movie star, and scamper out of there quickly.

Stadium at Delphi. Site of the Pythian Games.

Many pictures later, it is time to leave Delphi, but in body only - never in mind. We head back to the hotel, after our last meal as a group, and board another bus for the return trip to Athens.

Temple of Apollo at Delphi

We hope to meet up with our new friends in Athens on Sunday night for dinner. Bye guys, we miss you already. Our new bus is a one day tour group and it is dull in comparison. We immediatly take over our usual seats at the back, and take in the views.

Some of the amazing views at Delphi

On the way back to Athens, the bus stops in Arachova (coat town). We've been there and done that, so we (Jane, Marie, and myself), in the allotted 20 minutes, decide to "do" the famous 300 steps. Only one problem - it's at least half a mile away.

Rob gets the laurel leaves from Effie
and conquers the Arachova steps with time to spare

"Right", says the new tour guide, "only time to take a picture - if we hurry".

"Right", says I, "we'll see about that".

We speed walk to the steps, at which point Marie and I begin our ascent. I toss my smoke, and off we go. A (very long) short time later, Jane is a dot taking our picture from below. We conquer the final step together, turn, and run back down. We speed walk (read: hussle our butts) back to the bus, only to beat the tour guide by five minutes. I light a smoke and make her wait.

Museum at Delphi

Hours later, we're back in Athens. It's just us now, so we go for dinner. Due to a nasty storm, we are unable to book our planned one day island cruise. It's saved us about $200, so we go for a nice dinner where they cook Jane's fish at the table.

Two hours later, my hand is numb, Jane's in bed, and the bartender stops selling me ouzo. Goodnight.

Note: Best day so far, we've done so much in four days that it feels like we've been here for weeks. Our fun gang is the main reason that this tour was so great. Effie, our tour guide, told me that I was her favourite, so I planted a kiss on her cheek. I know what she will dream tonight!

May 8 - Athens Acropolis

Didn't sleep very well last night (who left the balcony door open?) and awoke to the sound of church bells ringing ... 10 ft. away! ... KALIMERA!

After many coffees we were off to the travel agent to book ferrys from Athens to Naxos, Naxos to Santorini, and a flight from Santorini back to Athens :(

The Parthenon, Acropolis of Athens

That taken care of, we went to the Acropolis and incredibly, found it somewhat boring. That's not to suggest it's not indeed spectacular, we've just seen so many amazing places the last four days, and without the crowds to boot!

We had a chance meeting with Dick, Beth, Dave and Cathy (from our tour group) while there. Dick had returned from the tour to discover that his horse had gone off at 70-1 in it's maiden race. Soulmate came seventh but was not running a comfortable distance.

I quickly asked Dick to let us know when he found the right distance - as Jane and I would like an e:mail pronto for our chance to get rich.

After a couple of pictures we were off, only to soon find ourselves back at 'our' taverna - chatting with other Canadian travellers.

Of course, Terrys was happy to see us again (who wouldn't be?).

The Caryatics on the Erechtheon

We wrote postcards and had plenty of beer and sunshine (again).

View from the Acropolis

Great place, this - we'll be back for dinner! I don't think that I wrote this much in high school, but I've been swept up by the travel bug now.

It's almost time to go back to our hotel (Adams) to freshen up for dinner. Yassas!

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I'm back! After a couple more beers (Terrys has been good enough to keep the mugs on ice), we headed back to the hotel for a siesta.

The phone woke us up a couple of hours later and it turned out to be George and Sonia calling from the bar downstairs.

We had planned to meet them for dinner tomorrow, so this was a pleasant surprise!

We ended up at our usual taverna, where George did an admirable job ordering dinner. Get this - I ate octopus, among other Greek delicacies.

While sitting at the open window, Jane spotted Marie, who joined us. Marie had also found our hotel and left us a note. After dinner (which was veeeery good) Terrys brought over ouzo, courtesy of the owner. Again, I was forced to drink Sonias for her.

Then it was off to Brettos where we sampled 17 year old brandy. We purchased a big bottle of seven star Metaxa, and a smaller bottle of 35 year old Brettos brandy. Quite tipsy now, we say Kalispera and head back to the hotel.

We've all agreed to meet again in two years and rent a house in Crete.


May 9 - National Archaeology Museum

It's Mothers Day. Jane rang home but missed her mum. We were both rather hung over - what a surprise!

Rob at the National Archaeological Museum

We headed to the National Archaeological Museum, and as Marie had mentioned last night it was somewhat of a disappointment after the experiences we'd had on the tour. Don't get me wrong - there were some amazing things to see but it didn't live up somehow to expectations. Not too spoiled now are we?

Athena and bronze boy on a horse


Unable to get a cab, we decided to walk back to the Plaka ... lots of exercise this trip!

I love the geometric designs on these pots (says Jane)

Once we got our bearings (the Acropolis is good for that) it was an easy thirty minute walk.


After a lazy afternoon (no booze - still hurting) we got ready to go for dinner with George and Sonia. While waiting in the square outside the Adams Hotel, Tony and Colleen arrived - we were thrilled to see them - and went back in for a quick drink (so much for no booze), and George and Sonia arrived shortly after.

They took us to their restaurant this time and once again George took care of ordering for the group in Greek. We were really quite fortunate to have him around as he was able to order meat and fish platters not available on the menu.

The Acropolis was just yards away and the waiter took pictures of all of us with each of our cameras.

It must have been obvious that we were enjoying ourselves (Tony was there, after all!), because a lady at another table sent us a bottle of wine. With the day's hangovers long forgotten, we enjoyed another splendid meal. For dessert, the owner brought us complimentary fruit and yoghurt with honey. That helped to wash down the squid - YES, I ate squid!

A great night at Taverna Spiliatis

It was the last night in Athens for all of us - George and Sonia were finally flying home, Tony and Colleen were off to Skopelos, and we were off to Naxos. A bit sad, but great to have been able to get together again.

Before parting, lots of hugs and kisses and invitations, to visit Australia and New Zealand. We know that they truly mean it, and that e:mails will be a great way of keeping in touch.

Everyone has an early night - we have arranged for George Kokkotas to pick us up at 6:45 a.m. to take us to Piraeus. Although he doesn't come cheap for a simple transfer, he comes highly recommended and it will save us the headaches of an unknown port.